Las Marismas

I'm reading James Michener's 'Iberia'. Over the last couple of decades I've read a number of Michener's novels; Alaska, Texas, The Carribbean, Hawaii, Mexico and Centennial come to mind. They are epic novels that plot family history over generations with detailed geographical connection. I've enjoyed them all.

Iberia is different in that it is not a novel; more a literary travel record of his experiences in Spain and his affection for it. I find it interesting, and although I'm only a third of the way into it I have learned much about Spain's culture, history, geography, flora and fauna, and governance over centuries. He examines architecture, music, painting, literature, and religion, with a relevance to history and the landscape. He asks the question, "Why did Spain, a pre-eminent world power of great military strength and wealth, dominant in exploration, the arts and trade, lose most of it's power and influence?" He gives explanation. Although written in the 1960's, he also gives warnings of the dangers of tourism as a panacea for economic malaise, which I find relevant to today.

So far he has described a number of towns and regions; Badajoz, Toledo, Cordoba, and I'm now into a chapter Las Marismas. I had never heard of this area before but Michener's excitement and passion is easily recognized in detailed description and stories. It's a large tidal swampland in the south west of Spain where the Guardalquiver River swells and spills over flat land in the winter rainy season. There's a twofold tide action, one directly from the Atlantic Ocean and one coming up the Rio Guadalquiver. This creates a massive wildlife reserve providing breeding conditions for hundreds of bird species particularly water birds but many others also. Many of these are migratory birds which return to Africa and Europe after breeding so it's recognised as a natural wonderland of great importance to the ecology of many nations, not just Spain. The fact that it floods every year has preserved it being destroyed by agriculture and commercial development. The birds and deer an other animals have provided a summer hunting ground for Spanish aristocracy for centuries such is the proliferation of wildlife.

Michener expresses concern (early 1960's) that there's political pressure to drain the swamp by preventing flooding with earthworks and levees which would be an ecological disaster. I checked on google. A National Park or the equivalent was set up in 1969 which has preserved much of Las Marismas. Probably my days of international travel are over but if I were to go to Europe Spain and Las Marismas would be a priority.

When I was house hunting with Rickyralph after Christmas we drove from Goolwa to a little town called Clayton. We went via Milang and for about 10 km we drove along wetland bordering Lake Alexandrina. It was teeming with waterbirds. Lake Alexandrina is where the Murray River flows before entering the sea near Goolwa. An Australian version of Las Marismas perhaps. I can hardly wait to explore that coast when we get properly organized and all the household and transition stuff done. We're getting there but still things to do. Tree removals/reducing around the house, and getting blocked storm water drains and downpipes cleared are first on the list. Then the reunion next weekend at Greta. I have sold my van, I think it will be picked up in the next couple of days. We traded Lib's Hyundai last week on a new Skoda Karoq. We're retired but busy still.